The first Michelin guide to Tokyo published in the fall of 2007 didn’t list a single yoshoku—or Western food—restaurant, perhaps due to this gastronomic genre falling into the somewhat grey area of being a Japanese interpretation of Western cuisine. Yoshoku had its roots in the Meiji Restoration as the Japanese steeled their stomachs to catch up with the West—economically, militarily and physically, by eating their food—but has now become uniquely Japanese.
Photos courtesy of Naoto Maeda
Founded in 1931, Taimeiken in Nihombashi is one of the legendary yoshoku establishments in Japan, famed for its “tampopo” omuraisu (omelet and rice) and loved by its faithful clientele for its nostalgic Meiji era-esque ambience, evoked by its dark wooden-framed interior and stained glass lamps.
The classics of yoshoku comprise omuraisu and beef stew, both of which Taimeiken prepares to rich, melt-in-your-mouth perfection. “Tampopo” omuraisu—developed by restaurant owner Masaaki Motegi for the 1985 Juzo Itami movie “Tampopo,” which focuses on the sensuality of food—has captivated the imagination of many a foodie for the way the plump, wrapped omelet unfolds with a golden yellow flourish into a tampopo (dandelion)-like blossom upon being sliced, fully covering the bed of ketchup-infused, stir-fried rice on which it is rested with its rich and runny yolky contents.
In contrast to the omuraisu, where seconds of overexposure to heat will destroy the dish, the beef stew is simmered for up to five hours, and the demiglace reduced over three days into a velvety sauce that is flavorsome at just the right consistency.
As these portions are pretty substantial, Taimeiken has also created a course of around 20 small dishes for those who would like to sample a variety of yoshoku in kaiseki style in a menu called 小皿料理, or literally, small dish cuisine. Here, one can sample seasonal ingredients as well as popular dishes such as beef tongue stew that literally melts on one’s tongue and crab cream croquettes, fried to (seemingly) oil-less crunchiness. Rounding out the meal is a very nostalgic shina soba (another name for traditional shoyu ramen).
Yoshoku, both familiar yet alien, offers a good culinary choice for foreigners who want a taste of Japan, but who aren’t too keen on raw fish or eel. As the restaurant closes at 9pm, it’s also an ideal venue for that brisk business dinner.
Restaurant Taimeiken, Nihombashi 1-12-10, Chuo-ku
tel:03-3271-2464 web: www.taimeiken.co.jp
